7: Santa Barbara

I made it!

My day certainly did not go as originally planned. In fact, my route was nearly completely nonoverlapping with my planned route, which was to go over the abandoned Refugio Road, then all the way over West Camino Cielo and East Camino Cielo, then down Gibraltar Road. I was having second thoughts, though, given the insane amount of elevation gain.

As I left Solvang, the day looked to be outstandingly sunny. I couldn't understand the 40% chance of precipitation in the forecast. I turned onto Refugio and immediately encountered a "road closed, bridge out" sign. Having been trained that such signs don't typically apply to cyclists, I went to investigate, accompanied by many construction trucks. What it really meant was that they were actively rebuilding a bridge, and no, you really can't walk around the earth excavator.

Great, so I would need to go up CA-154 to Stagecoach Road. On the way out of Refugio, the road was so bumpy that my bagman bent such that it stopped my bag onto the rear wheel. I had to pull out my ingenuity and steal the strap from my handlebar bag, sling my rear bag over my shoulder, and limp over to a hardware store in Santa Ynez to get an Allen wrench of the right size. It turned out that bending it back was the right solution, though. Now I did notice the clouds over the mountains getting darker and darker. I also realized I had lost a water bottle somewhere, but I was carrying enough extra liquids that I want worried.

There was an exciting episode on 154 at a long stretch of single-lane road closure. The traffic in the other direction wasn't held for me while I slogged uphill, so I had to jump off the side of the road to wait for them to pass.

Then the rain began, at noon, and it was a test in many ways. I was able to find a large oak tree to stay dry under and wait. I ate some of the food I'd accumulated in the past day. And I continued to wait. I watched the drizzle go on for about an hour, and I watched a patch of blue sky creep into view over the ridge. Finally,  running out of patience, I decided to start riding again, but I didn't get far before deciding it would be better to bail out.

I stuck my arm out, hoping to flag down a truck driver with some room to spare. Out of maybe 150 cars that went by, one stopped. Unfortunately his truck was full, but he did report that the weather was better on the Santa Barbara side, and the rain was really just in this 5-mile stretch. After about 15 minutes, I gave up my faith in humanity. I decided to test my insolence; I might as well stay warm by keeping moving.

It was just 3 miles to Stagecoach Road. This section was also marked "closed", but for no discernible reason. It came to another junction with 154, beyond which it was open. The rain had by now really let up, but I still had on most of my layers to stay warm. It was a steady climb up to a self-proclaimed historic civil engineering landmark, the Cold Springs Arch Bridge, and then the Cold Springs Tavern. Lunch was well-deserved: chili, burger, cheesecake.

A bit more climbing brought me to San Marcos Pass. There was some scary descending with fast traffic on 154 to Old San Marcos Road. I've never seen a road anywhere with such an amazing view. I saw a channel island in the distance, the shining Pacific and the sun breaking over the coastal cities, and the gloomy cover of clouds over the dark Santa Ynez Mountains. It was a straightforward and steep descent.

It was so warm down below, I had to repack my bag to put my extra layers in. I tried to follow the remarkably well-signed bike routes for a while, but soon I found my way over to the easiest one to navigate, State Street. I arrived at my hosts' at 4:30.

6: Solvang

Just as carrying a flat of strawberries precariously sensitizes one to every little bump in the road, the looming threat of dark clouds makes one alert to every possibility of shelter. Highway 166 started out in the grassland hills with hardly a tree at all, but after some swooping bridges over wide dry riverbeds, it came into scrubland hills with occasional trees. Traffic was not too frequent, but there were many trucks.

A few times I got a few drops of rain and the sensation of outrunning the storm. But as I can't to wet spots on the road, I realized the storm had passed in front of me. My timing was fortuitous. As I came to the turn to Tepusquet Road, the sunlight broke through. I almost stopped to play a celebratory tune on my whistle.

It was 5 miles straight uphill on beautifully smooth pavement. As I reached the top, a cyclist with no helmet was descending. I put on my jacket as large raindrops began to fall, but they disappeared as I went down the south side, about 9 miles of great descending. This road must be a well-kept secret; there was so little traffic that I managed to startle a family of deer.

I stopped in at Kenneth Volk to taste their interesting grape varietals and to refill water. I learned I had come to the Foxen Canyon Wine Trail. Better watch out for tipsy drivers, I guess.

Just down the road was Riverbench, where I had their selection of mostly Pinot Noir and conversed with some wine club members who were in to pick up their regular order who told me about the Foxen Canyon "wall", but I was sure it couldn't be that bad. We also discussed the harvest festival this weekend at a vineyard down the road, and how this winery was actually going to close early that day to avoid drunken customers. As I was going to leave, perhaps because I'd come 50 miles by bike, the server wouldn't even take my money for the tasting! I realized then that wineries don't really care about turning a profit on tastings.

Foxen Canyon was a very slow and long climb, then a steep section to get out of the valley, then a slow and long descent on very deteriorated pavement. It was getting late and I couldn't make any more wine tasting stops. The wall was a short climb of around 9% grade at most, but the reward was a panoramic view of the valley to the west and the mountains to the east.

I came into Los Olivos, and I decided I was hungry enough to want to resupply. But when I got into town at 17:15, the general store had already closed for the day! Sure, wine tasting rooms and an equestrian apply store were still open, but the town was a failure in my mind.

I found a nice bike route south to Solvang, and I contended with traffic on CA-246 to get to the farmers market just before closing. Then I went to my motel, the Hamlet Inn, to check in and clean up, wandered around town to see what was still open (not much), and ended up across the street at the Solvang Brewing Company for a dinner of beer and sausages. I was hungry, as it turns out.

5.25: Rancho Nipomo

I met the storm and it met me. I waited out for 5 minutes at a middle school in Halcyon and then 30 miserable minutes behind a medium-sized tree a mile before reaching Nipomo. I decided to get an early lunch at Rancho Nipomo, before I head into the hills. With any luck, the blue skies will hold out for a while.

Bed and breakfast, part 2

Toast with homemade strawberry jam, eggs, bacon, pear, fresh orange juice, tea

Weather?!

Mr. Zhao, whom I stayed with in Seaside, a meteorologist by training, advised me there could be a low pressure system coming in through southern California in the middle of the week, but it would probably bring scattered showers that I could seek shelter from until they subside. Spot on. At least he says the real winter storms from the Pacific don't come until December.

At least it looks like the winds are still going to blow from the northwest generally. But my gear doesn't include fenders. I am packing enough layers to get through a storm for a while, but there might not be a great deal of shelter en route. If it's still bad tomorrow I should think hard about the prudence of riding on the ridgetop with the chance of lightning.

Well, it still looks nice this morning, even if it all could change...

5: Arroyo Grande

The highlights of the afternoon:
- Turri Road, where I saw a total of 3 cars, a school bus, and a mail truck
- Prefumo Canyon, yet another exposed steep climb, but this time with cattle grates and a truly unique view of Morro Rock
- See Canyon, an unexpected dirt road section at the top (again with cattle grates) and another exciting descent
- See Canyon Fruit Farms, a source for massive heirloom apples
- Kelsey See Canyon Vineyards, a nice place with lots of peacocks foot no apparent reason
- Avila Valley Barn, where I had pumpkin pie a la mode
- seeing the Shell Beach cliffs up close
- the Grieb Farmhouse Inn, where I am the guest. That's right, there is only 1 guest here tonight.

Unfortunately my phone gave up the ghost earlier in the day, so some pictures never came to be.

4.5: Morro Bay

I had a nice bowl of oatmeal at the hostel before leaving, bidding farewell to the friendliest staff and the travelers from Finland, Malaysia, and Kansas. Today is the first day of riding uniquely interesting roads, and the hostel staff were very excited to hear about my day's itinerary.

First up: Santa Rosa Creek Road. It starts right outside Cambria, passing a few cow farms, and climbing gently along the creek. I said good morning to a pair of ranchers right where the real climbing started. It was quite a struggle to stay upright on the steep pitches of sometimes over 20% grade. I was definitely missing having the Long Haul Trucker's low gearing. However, I realized foolishly I'd actually been in my 2nd to lowest gear. It got easier after that.

Over the top was a terribly steep descent, the "wall", and then some downhill rolling to Highway 46. Old Creek Road had nice pavement, unlike the brokenness of Santa Rosa Creek, and it was rolling uphill until an outrageously fun descent. Coming into Cayucos, I saw an enormous reservoir to my right.

I found the bike path on the side of CA-1 we missed last year. I came to Tognazzini's for lunch, oyster chowder and lingcod scampi. I may have eaten too much...

4: Cambria

The sinuses kept me frequently up, but I managed to sleep until about 8. I wandered back to the general store for some Advil and a breakfast burrito, setting out around 9:30. I was a little concerned about having enough time, since I wasn't feeling optimal (although I decided allergies rather than sickness was more likely given the lack of other problems) and today was my first day of hard terrain after two relatively flat days. I decided I needed to reach Lucia by noon. I succeeded, even with lots of stopping for pictures. Traffic was quite light in the morning.

Past Lucia, the 2 spots where there had been a single lane open last year were still so this year. However, the first was noticeably more constructed than before. Waiting for the signal at the first were 2 other cyclists, one from an organized your, the other from the Sacramento Wheelmen on a club ride to Paso Robles, who said this year he'd seen more cyclists than the last 2 years combined. At Limekiln SP I refilled my water.

I evaluated my lunch options at Gorda, and deciding the restaurant was too overpriced, I had a refrigerated deli sandwich and a moon pie. I watched several cyclists go by going south as I ate.

Climbing to Ragged Point, I passed a pair of cyclists. I saw them again at Ragged Point Inn, where we commiserated over the ridiculously slow service while waiting to order our milkshakes. They were on one of the supported tours, but were from Belvedere. I learned they were a couple when they spoke to reach other as a grumbling old man and growling old woman. Apparently most of their group had taken a SAG option and stopped riding early. I guess you can do that when you're fully supported.

I got a 1.5L water from the store, and unable to fit it all in my bottles, I gave the rest to some cyclists carrying more than I. They were Chris and Matt, from Orange County, and they'd been hammock camping. Their goal for today was also Cambria.

After reaching the flatlands a bit further south, I received my promised tailwinds, and just like last year, I went really fast. This year, though, I did stop for elephant seals.

Cambria is currently full of scarecrows. They're all unique local pieces of art, similar in a way to Cow Parade. I got to the hostel, showered, was given some food that a hostel staffer had just cooked, and went out to look at more scarecrows. I had dinner at a Mexican restaurant that advertised birria and chicken mol err, but sadly had run out of both.

3: Big Sur

After Carmel, I went towards Point Lobos and hiked out to see the lobos. I met some cyclists there from New Hampshire who were day-tripping from Pebble Beach. also, I was passed by the first of two tour groups I'd see in Big Sur. For some reason they didn't stop to see the lobos.

Shortly afterward, I met with tailwinds for the first time. You really get the sensation of flying when they're on your side. I got to experience the part of Highway 1 we had to drive last year, including the wonderful "curvy road next 63 miles" sign, as well as see the rest in the different light of afternoon. Rocky Creek, the site of last year's slide, only had a single lane open with traffic light control. This meant car traffic came in bursts, in between which I could actually experience some peace on the road.

Unfortunately the Point Sur lighthouse was not open. I went on to the store at River Inn for a ginger smoothie and information. Finding that Riverside was just up the road, I set off and checked in. It was a mixed camping and cabin site. I was in a cabin room on the bottom of a slope.

While trying to ascertain the source of good music I was hearing, I met there a guy named Tim from SLO, who had put aside his desire to see the Grateful Dead in concert to treat his wife to a nice birthday "glamping" (in her words). On noticing I had come by bike, he offered me beer, water, and anything really, even his second-to-last can of Red Bull. The next day he would even offer me pancakes and breakfast (but I was too polite to take his food).

I walked back to "town" for dinner at the pub. Sitting at the bar, I chatted with a woman from England named Lucy, who was on a tour of her own through California prior to meeting a friend in LA. Naturally she was impressed to find a pub in such a remote place. Though she'd been on some long cycling trips in the UK, she was having enough of a challenge driving on the right side of the road.

A burger with fries was delicious. I returned to go to bed early, since I'd been having some sinusitis all day and I had nothing better to do anyway; there was no cell service, of course, but there was some free wireless that I couldn't reach from inside my cabin.

2.5: Carmel

Monterey was a pretty exciting dance. But by the end I could tell I was really getting tired. I'll have more to write later.

Today I rode the scenic parts of the Monterey peninsula that we didn't get to do last year because of landslides. Wow. It's absurd that such natural beauty is so close at hand.

I started to notice a floppy sound coming from my rear wheel. I stopped to check I didn't get a flat. Uncertain of my tire pressure, I took it in to Carmel's Bay Bikes, but they said it looked fine. Now enjoying some sanddab and garlic fries as t Flanagan's before heading down to Big Sur.

2: Seaside

The picture of the day is a flat of strawberries I picked up from Pezzini Farms and loaded onto my Carradice Bagman, using my saddlebag to hold it down. I'm pleased to report that it survived all the way to my family friends' home in Seaside, where I'm staying, and my bag isn't even strawberry-flavored.

I can't forget the smell of riding through endless fields of ripe strawberries, which constituted approximately the middle third of the day.

Family friends: they take care of you, they sacrifice their own well-being for yours, they think nothing of doing things for you that you wouldn't even think to ask. You even speak with them in Chinese. They're family, essentially.

Felton

I spent long enough getting showered, laundered in the sink, and pianoed that I ran out of time to have dinner in Santa Cruz. Instead I hopped on the bus to Felton and had a burrito from the taqueria there. With no time to spare, I dashed over to the hall, but it was a large newcomer session so it wasn't exactly on time.

The dancers were a fascinating mix of people from over the mountains like me, most of whom had chosen a saner means of transportation; people who were new to dancing; and the local regulars, some of whom I vaguely remembered from my 2 previous times here, and some of whom I'd seen in Palo Alto.

In lieu of appropriate footwear, I brought a roll of athletic tape for my feet. The tape curled a bit at first but worked as I had hoped. Originally white, it dustified as the night went on.

The dances Lisa Greenleaf called were on the simpler side, given the large newcomer crowd, and I wrote down 2 of them. Dr. Groove with Betsy was amazing - they and Lisa even pulled off a seamless transition from walkthrough to dance. I was offered space on people's floors (that I didn't need) and rides back to downtown, which I eventually got with Steve, a radio engineer.

I really feel like I should be sleeping more, but I seem to perennially be the first one awake in the hostel...

1: Santa Cruz

I learned the hard way that Highway 9 isn't actually all downhill. It's downward-trending rollers. I tried to get down from Felton via a dirt path from Conference Dr, but it was gnarly singletrack that became a sandy quagmire that became a broken road. I'm duly convinced of the folly of biking to and from the dance in Felton. I'll take a bus instead.

In Santa Cruz, I visited Bicycle Trip to get a handlebar bag, since my saddlebag is very hard to sift through. The staff there really admired my setup. Then I came to the hostel, waiting for them to open, and met Jimmy, a touring cyclist with a lot of camping and other gear. He was actually trying to figure out how to move here (interviewing at a bike shop) and having been here yesterday was continuing to a nearby campground.

The cottage I'm staying in not only has a piano; the piano actually sounds really good.

Curfew recently changed from 11pm to 12am. This is cool because *all the things* end around 11 - concerts, dances, whatnot.

Boulder Creek

There happened to be a library sale! I got some food for the mind in addition to some food for the body.

0.5: lunch

Cafe Masa. The amorphous thing in the bowl is chocolate tres leches cake. If I'm not careful I'll never want to leave.

0.5: SF2G FFFF Bayway

Nice windy morning with a lovely sunrise. My estimate is about 60 people came on this ride. I met a few folks who commented on my Virginia Mathcounts jacket.

Breakfast with almond poppyseed bread at the water stop was followed with breakfast 2 at Bigtable Cafe with Danny. Seems I'll be here at Google long enough to get an early lunch, too.

SF2G and then some

Tomorrow I'll be getting a ridiculously early start with SF2G, everyone's favorite bicycle commuter gang, on its monthly First Friday Friendly Frolic, in which we make sure absolutely everyone makes it to their place of work. (Though I'll feel a little silly for not actually going to work.) Even more special will be the catering by Kahnfections at the halfway water stop. Cyclists love scones.

To begin this trip with SF2G is also symbolic in that I first got into long distance riding with SF2G, and the aesthetic of riding one's bike to actually get somewhere still resonates with me. (See: this trip.)

Google is of course only halfway for me, and I should be there by 10am, leaving an absurd amount of time to get down to Santa Cruz.

That's the last I'll write from this laptop; future updates will be from my phone. I've miles to sleep before I go.

Itinerary

This is my current projected schedule of destinations:

• Friday, October 5: Felton/Santa Cruz
• Saturday, October 6: Monterey
• Sunday, October 7: Big Sur
• Monday, October 8: Cambria
• Tuesday, October 9: Oceano
• Wednesday, October 10: Solvang
• Thursday, October 11: Santa Barbara

Most of the intermediate stops are in different places from Phil's trip. This is partially to see different parts of the Central Coast area, especially some more mountainous detours, and partially to leave some resting time around dances.

Updates here to follow. Let me know if you want a postcard!

Two wheels and two feet

The last time I biked to Santa Barbara (with Phil Sung and friends), it wasn't about a destination. We just wanted to enjoy traveling by bicycle, seeing the coast and coasting by the sea, and expanding our horizons to undiscovered parts of the great state of California. That week was one of the most fun I've ever had.

However, it did reach my attention that I missed out on an interesting dance in Santa Barbara by just one week.

A year and a half later, I signed up for a dance weekend in Santa Barbara, Harvest Moon (which, to my disappointment, was not scheduled according to the lunar calendar and is almost on the new moon). I remembered how brilliant it was to travel such distances by bike, but could I do so and still be able to dance? Once I found out, though, that the weekend prior would hold a dance in Monterey called Foggy Moon, with the incomparable Lisa Greenleaf, it was the easiest decision to make. (And a bonus dance in Felton the day before that is the cream on the pudding.)

Since I'd just added a traditional tune called the Moon and Seven Stars to my knowledge, the name for this journey came together naturally. The cycling part happens to be 7 days long, too.

Given the peculiarity of this trip, I'll be doing this one on my own, which gives me the liberty to find spectacular deviations from the normal coastal touring route. My goals are, loosely, to visit some of the best cycling roads on the Central Coast, and to visit some of the best contra dances on the Central Coast, and to have a good time throughout.

(As an aside, I'm going to miss an interesting century ride in Santa Barbara by just one week. Such is fate.)